Muriwai

Muriwai or sometimes called Muriwai Beach is a small west coast community about 42 kilometres north west of Auckland. It is known for its gannet colony and as a surfers' beach. A great white shark claimed the life of a surfer here in 2013 just 30 metres off shore; a decidedly rare occurrence as it is the first in 30 years.  The black sand beach extends unbroken for 50 kilometres to the north.  Swimming, fishing and even hang gliding are favorite past times when the winds are accommodating.

We ventured here primarily to see the gannets.  We were not disappointed!  The setting is what first caught our attention. A spectacular expanse of black sandy beaches, pounding surf, and sunshine with a majestic headland serving as a gateway for the beach beyond.

As enticing as the view was from a distance' I was anxious to get closer to see the gannet colony first hand.

Trails lead to three prominent over looks with a bird's eye view of the approximately 1200 member gannet colony.

Gannets are an interesting bird. They are masterful divers  Plunging from 30 metres, they achieve depths beyond the reach of nearly any other species, yet its the speed they reach on the dive, up to 100 kilometres an hour that is truly amazing.  They have air sacs in various parts of their bodies to absorb the impact.  Even their nostrils are inside the mouth, presumably to protect them.

There are a number of other design features that enable them to fly seemingly effortlessly, while maintaining incredible maneuverability, at least in the air. On land it is another story. Awkward and slow are words that best describe gannets.

They nest just outside the pecking range of their neighbour with the oldest dominant pairs occupying key positions near the center of the colony. Both parents care for the chicks.  Usually only one is present while the other is out getting lunch. 

Upon return gannets greet each other with a clacking of their beaks.  Pairs reportedly stay together for life, demonstrating a loyalty to each other and their offspring which in itself is remarkable.

Now that we are getting somewhat accustomed to the driving conditions, we are willing to venture forth more readily. There is a lot to see.  The challenge is to organize our limited time to take best advantage of what New Zealand has to offer. I call the one day a week I have my mental health day. Other days it is on the phone trying to calm troubled souls. To be sure, I have to stay one step ahead so I can be there when needed, so I find a brief reprieve on what is aptly called the 'preparation day'.

A view from the beach below

Temple Trip Hamilton New Zealand

We were invited by the Auckland New Zealand Mission President to join them on their temple trip.  


Situated atop a stately hill in the rural outskirts of Hamilton, the Hamilton New Zealand Temple overlooks the 86 acres it shared with the former Church College of New Zealand—a church-operated school for students ages twelve to eighteen that permanently closed in December 2009, after 51 years of operation.

At the base of the hill is a popular visitors's center surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens.  As we were there during the day, we did not see the light display but in the evening,  during the Christmas season, the grounds are filled with a dazzling spectacle of lights and displays.

Hamilton itself has an interesting history as it was built  in and around seven large peat bogs.  In the winter, the swamps would on occasion overflow, generating some consternation on the part of the early residents. Over 655 square kilometres of land constituted peat bog. Consequently, the TB bacillus proved deadly for many of the settlers.  Since then most of  the smaller lakes have been drained.

The countryside  is slowly being taken over by dairy farms replacing the sheep which for generations was the mainstay of the New Zealand agricultural community.  We actually didn't see that many sheep.  China now is the main importer of milk as they do not trust their own processing methods given the scare in 2008 when over 300,000 suffered the effects of melamine  used as an additive to give the appearance of more protein content in the milk and milk powder.  A number of infants died. The quick transition to dairy production has not been without its critics here in New Zealand however.


For about ten days we have had overcast skies and rain.  This day was no exception. Yet it was still pleasantly warm, although noticeably humid. Driving and taken in the green, verdant countryside was still an enjoyable experience.

Spending time with the missionaries is always a treat.  Their energy, enthusiasm and "joi de vivre" was contagious.  For the small percentage who struggle, they still seem to maintain a positive demeanor. I am optimistic and hopeful that I can provide some degree of relief from the anxiety and depression which beset some of them on occasion.  I feel it a privilege to work with them.

This group represents a third of the Auckland Mission.  The rest were at the temple on Tuesday and Wednesday.

Devonport

Devonport is a harbourside community only a few short kilometres from our apartment in Takapuna.  It is to New Zealand what Jamestown and Williamsburg are to America.  It is believed the first Maori landed in the vicinity.  A plaque commemorates their landing in 12 huge Tainui Waka (canoes); English settlers arrived five centuries later in 1840.

Devonport lies on a peninsula on the north shore with Mount Victoria (volcanic promontory) overlooking the bay and the city of Auckland.

By means of timely zoning, it has avoided the higher density of other areas of Auckland thus maintaining the charm of the mid nineteenth century architecture reminiscent of early colonization. Quaint shops, elegant facades and a cinema, purportedly the oldest in the southern hemisphere in continuous use, is located on Victoria Road, the main street of Devonport. Streets are narrow winding and hilly.  We strolled along a number of them to take in the flavor of early house designs and sea side life.


A deep sea base and the home of the New Zealand Naval Yard is located on the right of the top picture.   We walked along the beach noting the remains of lava flows from Mount Victoria. Further along is the Devonport Yacht Club and also a Sea Scout Hall, a reminder of where Kiwis like to spend their time.

While in one of tourist shops I saw a beautifully carved Maori canoe called a waka.  Legend has it the first Maori arrived in 12 large waka.  A little research revealed the Maori designed wakas for a number of seafaring tasks.  War canoes (waka taua) were large canoes manned by as many as 80 paddlers and were up to 40 metres in length. Some older designs had outriggers, many with sails, and all elaborate in design and craftsmanship.

Maori told missionaries during the Musket Wars battles between waka took place at sea with the aim to ram an enemy vessel amid ship at high speed. The object being to ram the enemy waka mid ship and sink her by riding atop the other vessel.  The enemies were either killed, left to drown or captured to be used in cannibal feasts and the females as slaves.

 We walked through a park near the beach front.  Arendje picked up a seed pod and asked what it was.  I thought it looked like a fig. Sure enough after a little research I identified the tree as a Moreton Fig. It is an evergreen that can reach heights of 60 m. and the canopy equally large. The trunk can be massive.  It has an unusual characteristic of dropping aerial branches, which upon reaching the ground serve as trunks for the very impressive canopy.  The fruit we saw can be found all year round. Although edible, these are not your first choice.

It is a rain forest plant which when the seed lands in a host tree it will send out a strangler vine and once the aerial roots are established the vines will strangle the host tree and taking over to then grow independently.  Also interesting it is pollinated by only one species of wasp.  It is apparently a symbiotic relationship as the wasp is dependent on this tree to reproduce.

Takapuna and Lake Papuke

High school field right below us

Skyline of Auckland from our apartment

Well it is our first full week in Auckland and we are somewhat settled. I say that rather tentatively. Having been through this once before certainly helps, yet there is a lot to assimilate, customs to learn, peoples names to remember, a case load to manage, driving habits to acquire, and a  rigorous schedule to maintain. I am learning to be patient with myself.  It is coming!

Of course there some conditions we will have no difficulty adjusting to; the climate for one. It is marvelous! Our apartment is ideal. We have a splendid view of the Auckland skyline and plenty of green space where I jog every morning (my stress reducer). Work, shopping, restaurants and a beautiful beach are within walking distance. We have use of a car, transit is free locally for seniors, for which we qualify, and the service looks good!  People are friendly, birds are everywhere and it is clean and green!

The Taylor's, the wonderful couple we are replacing, who were also with us in Germany, took us on a drive south to see the countryside and to overlook some impressive beaches. This will likely become common fare as I know there any number of beaches within a short distance of Auckland. I would describe the countryside, at least here, as rough and rolling given  its volcanic origins and over laid with a rich variety of sub tropical trees and plant life. Within the Auckland area there is evidence of at least five volcanic upheavals.  I will share more about these and others as time passes as it is something that interests me.

Lake Pupuke

On our fourth or fifth day we went to a Thai restaurant near our apartment. We are near the north end of Lake Pupuke or the narrow neck of land which you see to the left. It is a heart shaped freshwater lake which filled after a volcanic explosion crater. In fact it was the fresh water springs that were likely the catalyst for its explosive beginnings. It is called a maar probably from the french word mare meaning sea. From what I read, the heart shape is a result of two craters - a large one forming most of the lake and a smaller one forming the arm in the northeast. It is on this narrow arm where we stood separated from the ocean by about 200 meters. We stood at the highest point which is probably only 20 meters above sea level. Not a place to stand if a tsunami were to strike! The lake is about 4.5 kilometres in circumference and approximately 57 meters deep.  We watched what appeared to be dragon boats and racing skiffs out practising. Understandably the New Zealanders love their water.