Saturday 28 November 2015

Bay of Islands


What has to be one of the premier tourist spots in all of New Zealand is the Bay of Islands,  In the north east corner of the north island is an archapeligo of 142 islands.  This is referred to as a Ria Coast essentially referring to a submerged land with only the higher points visible above the water line. The islands and jagged coast line provide bounteous sheltered bays, harbours, peninsulas and islets.

In addition to being an ideal boating and tourist venue, it is also well known for its fishing and marine habitat for whales, porpoises, seals and other marine life.  We took full advantage of this visually stunning area to tour the  islands, take pictures and overall have a wonderful day.

These islands were settled early by the Maori given the plentiful food supply and today the largest tribe is found here. Some of New Zealand's most famous Maori chieftains originated here.

As expected this represented an ideal landing spot for early explorers. Captain Cook and a series of early adventurers made their first encounters with the Maori's here not without a number of fractious exchanges.  It makes for some interesting reading. As Eurpoean settlers were drawn to the location at the end of the 18th century, so too were the less savory sojourners in the form of whalers and later peaceable missionaries. This in turn generated further cause for conflict eventually leading to the need for some political resolution between the contending parties.
 
We ventured out amidst the islands on an overcast day, yet pleasant enough.  In fact the clouds allowed us to avoid the sharp contrasts the sun imposes on our picture taking efforts. We saw whales, stopped and hiked on one of the islands and enjoyed the on board commentary of the historic significance of various spots along the way.

As our boat approached the furthest reaches of our trip, there was some excited anticipation of what we were told would be the highlight of the
journey.  Piercey Island is a much revered  ceremonial location of the Maori.  It is referred to as hole in the rock and tour boat operators regularly take passage through this breach in the island. At first sight it did not look like our boat would fit, but as we approached, the true proportions of the rock channel made us believers.

The choppy seas settled under the protective cover of the rock walls and we made safe passage through with not a lot of room to spare.  Arendje's smile I thought captured the magic of the moment.

We never saw our promised porpoises so they gave us another pair of tickets to come again another day.   I don't know if we will have the opportunity, but I would certainly welcome another trip.  We had a relatively small group on our boat as we took it during the winter months to avoid the summer throngs.




The rest of the day was spent visiting some of the historic towns, taking
 tours of the Treaty Grounds which I will cover in another blog post.

Russel is one such town which has a colourful past, it being a stopping point for the early whalers.  Long weeks and even months at sea left them ready for some revelry and raucous behaviour when landfall was finally made. Local settlers bemoaned their arrival as there presence had an unsettling effect on everyone nearby.

Early New Zealand  immigrants had to be a hardy lot as limited supplies and vast distances made the
likelihood of enjoying the former
amenities of their homelands, costly
to ship, requiring long waits
between resupply.

Relationships between settlers and Maori slowly warmed,  settlements expanded and many of the Maoiri settlements begun here expanded south.  Okiato was the nation's first capital.  Another important location was Waitangi where the Treaty of of Waitangi would later be signed.  Kerikeri as the staging point for the inland Maori to go to sea and the site of the first mission station in the
country.














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